Kannauj: Everything You Should Know About The Perfume Capital Of India
Introduction
Kannauj, often referred to as the Perfume Capital of India, is a city that has seamlessly blended tradition with modernity. Located 220 km from Agra and about 140 km from Lucknow, Kannauj has been perfuming the world with its traditional attar-making industry for over 400 years. This ancient city, nestled in the Ganges belt of northeast India, has been perfecting the art of perfumery for centuries, making it a significant hub for fragrance enthusiasts and historians alike.
Historical Significance
Perfume-making in Kannauj dates back to ancient times. Archaeologica findings suggest that perfume-making was practiced during the Indus Valley civilization, with terracotta distillation apparatus found during excavations. The technique of hydro-distillation, discovered by Persian physician Avicenna in the 10th century, is still used today to prepare attar. This method involves using water or steam to extract essential oils from plants, a process that has been refined and perfected over centuries in Kannauj.
The city’s rich history is reflected in its architecture, which hints at its royal past. Once the seat of the Harshvardhan empire in the 7th century AD, Kannauj was known as Kanyakubja, the ‘city of hunchbacked maidens’. The city’s perfume industry flourished further under the Mughals in the 16th century, who brought their obsession with fragrances from Persia and Turkey. Emperor Akbar and his son Jehangir were known for their extensive use of perfumes, with Jehangir even establishing a department for the creation and sale of attar.
The Art of Attar-Making
Attar perfumes are created by crushing and infusing botanicals directly into sandalwood oil or water. This process results in oils that are highly absorptive, making the scent linger for days. The attars range from woodsy and musky to intense floral and spice, offering an androgynous quality. The traditional method involves using a copper cauldron, locally known as ‘degh bhapka,’ fueled by cow dung and wood, making it an eco-friendly technique.
The process of making attar in Kannauj is both an art and a science. Early every morning, expert hands harvest Damask roses, which are then delivered to master attar makers. The traditional distillation method, known locally as "degh bhapka," involves using copper stills fueled by wood and cow dung. This eco-friendly technique captures the essence of flowers and botanicals, creating a range of scents from floral and woodsy to musky and smoky.
Unique Fragrances
Kannauj is renowned for its unique attars, including the enigmatic "mitti attar," which captures the scent of earth after a rainfall. Another notable creation is "shamama," a complex blend of over 40 flowers, herbs, and resins that takes days to distill and months to age. These attars are highly sought after by renowned perfume houses in Europe, where they are used as layers in modern perfumery.
The Making of Attar
Kannauj’s location atop rich alluvial Ganga soil is favorable for the growth of jasmine, vetiver, and damask rose. The attar-making process involves boiling flower petals in a copper cauldron and sealing it with clay to capture the fragrant vapors. These vapors pass through a funnel into a pot containing water or oil, which absorbs the condensed vapors. The attar is then stored in a camel skin bottle that wicks moisture. One of the most famous products is the ‘mitti attar,’ which captures the fragrance of the first rain.
The traditional methods of attar-making are eco-friendly and preserve the cultural heritage, but they face challenges such as competition from modern perfumery techniques and the need for sustainable sourcing of raw materials. Balancing tradition with innovation is crucial for the survival and growth of Kannauj’s perfume industry.
Royal Connections
Kannauj's rich history is reflected in its architecture, which hints at its royal past. Once the seat of the Harshvardhan empire in the 7th century AD, Kannauj was known as Kanyakubja, the ‘city of hunchbacked maidens’. The city’s perfume industry flourished further under the Mughals in the 16th century, who brought their obsession with fragrances from Persia and Turkey. Emperor Akbar and his son Jehangir were known for their extensive use of perfumes, with Jehangir even establishing a department for the creation and sale of attar.
Challenges and Tradeoffs
While the traditional methods of attar-making are eco-friendly and preserve the cultural heritage, they face challenges such as competition from modern perfumery techniques and the need for sustainable sourcing of raw materials. Balancing tradition with innovation is crucial for the survival and growth of Kannauj’s perfume industry.
Conclusion
Kannauj remains a testament to India’s rich cultural heritage and its enduring love for fragrances. The city’s traditional attar-making industry continues to thrive, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and eco-friendly practices. As the Perfume Capital of India, Kannauj’s legacy is one of timeless elegance and aromatic splendor.
Photo Source: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/how-did-kannauj-become-a-perfume-capital